Installation

The first step is to set the cannister on the foam blocks provided in the box for shipping. Once the cannister is secure, remove the shipping bracket and tubes by removing the aluminum shipping bracket shown here, using a #2 Phillips screwdriver.


The aluminum shipping bracket has been removed and can now be discarded. Next, pull the long plastic shipping tubes out of the spirals on both sides. Do not remove the red tie wire at this time.


It is now time to install the rails to the canister. We'll start with the passenger-side rail which does not have the white nylon lock stop (shown to the right).





As shown in the above photos, the passenger-side rail was installed to the canister. The front of the rail has two threaded holes that are used to attach the rail to the canister. You start by sliding the cover and bearings into the channel of the rail. Continue to thread the rail onto the cover, holding the rail level to help line everything up. When the two threaded holes are lined up, attach the rail to the spiral using two of the 10/32 x 7/16" screws, provided. Tighten using a #2 Phillips screwdriver.

Note: Do not use Loctite as doing so will void your warranty and is completely unnecessary.

Next, install the driver's-side rail. First remove the red tie wire that is holding the cover in place. Then open the lock by pressing the release button and pull the cover out approximately 8-inches. Do not allow the cover to roll back in until the rail is installed. Follow the same instructions above to install the driver's rail.


It is now time to install the front cover, which is to be attached below the rails, in front of the spiral-canister. The thin edge (without the weather strip) is slid into place first, toward the canister. Slide the cover back until the threaded holes in the front of the cover line up under the holes in the rail. Push both ends in evenly to slide it in place. Once the holes are lined up, thread the two screws with the black caps and tighten using a #2 Phillips screwdriver. Snap the black caps in place when finished.





The next step involves two people lifting the unit (the canister with the rails attached) into the bed of your truck. However, before we performed this balancing act, we decided to attach the drain holes so we did not have to do so in a tight space. Plus, our Project Truckblog vehicle has a BedRug which required a bit of additional finesse prior to placing the RETRAX in the bed. To install the drain tubes we drilled 1/2-inch holes right through the BedRug (which is safe as long as you do not drill through a stitched seam) and the plastic plugs on both sides of the bed. This is a great location as it is directly below the canister's drain holes you will need to plug with the tubing.

We are now finally able to lift the unit into place. Before doing so, however, you will want to roll the cover into the canister and push down firmly on the rounded end of the lock until it latches. Using two people, lift the bed cover by the front of the rail and as far back as you can reach the rail. Set the assembly in place at the very front of the bed. Gently push and twiste the rails slightly inward, if needed, to drop it into place.

Notes: Do not change the nylon adjustment screws on the rails. Also, the weather strip on the exposed side of the cover should lay flat on top of the bed of your truck. This is critical to keep water sealed out.

Now it's time for some minor adjustments before we secure the rails to your truck. Push the entire assembly forward or back to achieve a 1/8-inch gap between the bottom notch of the rail and the inside face of the closed tailgate protector. Measure both sides, using the supplied adjustment tool to achieve the proper 1/8-inch clearance. Be careful when making adjustments not to move the rails.

SOURCES: Applied Products, Inc. retrax@rolltopcover.com www.rolltopcover.com 1-866-385-8899 917 S. 46th St. Grand Forks, ND 58201 RETRAX at Truck Hownd