11: Spindle with the stock assembly removed.
12: With the new hubs supplied in the kit, pack the new bearings (inner and outer) with wheel bearing grease, and insert them into the new hubs as well as the new seals. **Note that you pack the bearings correctly, not to leave any air bubbles or pockets inside of them or else your brakes can seize, resulting in an accident. To pack the bearings correctly, hold out your palm with a glob of grease in the center, and with your other hand, scrape your palm with the side of the bearing until the grease has thoroughly pushed through, packing the bearing.
13: Slide the new hub assembly onto the spindle, following the original washer and nut. Torque the spindle nut to 12 foot lbs, install the original cotter pin, followed by the dust cap.
14: The next step is to install the caliper mounting brackets. The caliper mounting brackets are the same for left and right. The brackets bolt to the backside of the spindles with the large step in the bracket pointing outwards, away from the front end. The 9/16" bolts supplied in the kit should be installed from the outside. On the inside, install the lock washer and finally secure the assembly with the 9/16" hex nuts supplied. Finally, torque them to 80 to 90 foot pounds. ** Note that in the photo, the bracket is mounted on the outside of the spindle. For our specific Fabtech Suspension lift kit combination, due to the aftermarket lift spindle, we had to notch the inside of the bump stop on the spindle for the bracket to fit properly. You will not have to do this on stock applications or lowered trucks utilizing the stock spindle (flip kits).
15: Next, you can install the new slotted rotors by sliding them onto the new hub assembly. Then, install the new 4-piston aluminum calipers. Before installing the new calipers, you have to remove the stock calipers. Once you've closed off the brake line, unbolt the banjo bolt and let the fluid in that section of line drain. Then, slide the new 4-piston caliper over the rotor and bolt them down using the 7/16" bolts and lock washers provided. Torque them to 45 to 50 foot pounds.
16: With the caliper bolted on, slide the brake pads in from the top with the lining material on the pads facing each other. Install the brass adapter block to the back of the caliper using the metric banjo bolt and the copper washers supplied. Secure the original flex hose to the adapter block using the 3/8" banjo bolt and copper washers supplied, then torque the banjo bolts to 20 foot pounds.
17: Slide the pad pins in from the front sides of the caliper, making sure they pass through the holes in the brake pad backing plates. Install the retainer clips through the pad pins on the backside of the calipers.
18: Picture of the notched spindle and correct installation of the rotor, caliper and caliper bracket assembly.
19: After everything has been installed, you then can bleed the brake system. With the calipers installed, make sure all the fittings are tight and the master cylinder is topped off with fluid. Open one bleeder screw at a time, starting with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder. With the bleeder screw open, observe the bleeder. At first you will see air bubbles but when the bubbles stop and you see a steady flow of fluid, close the valve and move onto the next caliper. DO NOT LET THE MASTER CYLINDER RUN DRY. Once all the calipers are bled and the master cylinder has been topped off with new fluid, begin pumping your brake pedal until it becomes hard. If the pedal continues to be spongy and going to the floor, repeat the bleeding process until the hard pedal is achieved.
20: Completed installation picture.

Sources:

Stainless Steel Brake Corporation
11470 Main Street Clarence, NY 14031
(800) 448-7722
www.ssbrakes.com 
info@ssbrakes.com

A Plus Auto Care
13830 Poway Road, Poway, CA 92064
(858) 486-3550
www.aplusautocare.com/
Special thanks goes to Dan!