Painless Performance includes everything you need for the installation right down to the last screw. From left to right:

• 2x Rubber Spacers for mounting under the legs of the Cirkit Boss
• 1x Circuit Breaker
• 3x Various Fuse Taps
• 1x ¼" Push On Terminal for connecting to fuse tap
• 3x 12-10 AWG Ring Connectors (1x large for connecting to battery and 2x small for connecting to circuit breaker)
• 4x Self Tapping Sheet Metal Screws (long) for mounting the Cirkit Boss
• 2x Self Tapping Sheet Metal Screws (short) for mounting the circuit breaker
• 2x 3/8" Hex Nuts and Washers for

Underside view of the Cirkit Boss. The rubber spacers provided will ensure proper clearance of the wires underneath in addition to dampening any vibrations when mounted to the vehicle.

View with fuse cover removed. Once you have mounted your accessories you can use the diagram under the cover to mark which fuse corresponds to each item.

Breakdown of fuse locations with corresponding wires

When choosing a location to mount the fuseblock, ensure that it is accessible and enables you to service the fuses. We found that a good location was behind the dash panel. The bottom supports already have holes in them which we could use to mount the fuseblock

Test fitting the fuseblock.

The next step was finding a way to route the 10 gauge power wire through the firewall. We found that the 07 Superduty had three access holes shown below. The bottom right hole was already in use so we chose the upper left to route our power wire through. The holes in the firewall at that location are just covered with a soft metallic sticker. A quick "slit" with an exacto knife will get you through. When making the cut, do not cut a circle…a simple slit will do because that will enable you to close the metallic sticker around the wire preventing any gaps. The fuseblock comes with 10ft of wire so there will be more than enough to get the job done.

Now that you have chosen your location for the fuseblock and figured out how you will route the 10 gauge power wire through the firewall, it is a very simple process getting everything installed.

Although it is not necessary we separated the ignition and constant hot wires into two groups with zip ties. Each wire is already individually marked stating exactly what it is (ignition hot or constant hot).

From top to bottom:

• 10 gauge power wire
• 18 gauge trigger wire for the relay attached to the fuseblock
• 3 constant hot wires
• 4 ignition hot wires

Since we are using existing holes in the lower support behind the dash panel we did not need the self taping sheet metal screws. Instead we used 8-32x1 machine screws/nuts and 5/32x7/8 washers to secure it in place.

As a redundant measure we made a small jumper to ensure we had a good ground.

Using a test light or multimeter, find a fuse in the factory fuseblock that has power only when the ignition switch is in the "on" position. Remove the fuse, test to see which side of the fuse terminal is hot and install one of the fuse taps on the hot side of the fuse and reinstall the fuse. Note: Be sure the fuse tap is on the hot terminal side in the factory fuseblock. We found that the fifth fuse up from the bottom, on the right hand side gave us the key on power that we needed. The hot side of the fuse terminal is to the right as shown by the fuse tap.

Next, route the small 18 gauge pink wire from the fuseblock assembly to the fuse tap in the factory fuseblock. Cut the wire to the proper length and install the ¼" push on terminal provided. This terminal is then installed on the fuse tap.

Route the 10 gauge red wire toward the battery. Mount the inline circuit breaker close to the battery (on the firewall or inner fender panel). Cut the wire to length and attach it to the circuit breaker with the terminal provided. Attach the remainder of the red wire between the battery and circuit breaker with the terminals provided. Note: The circuit breaker is marked "Aux" on the silver terminal and "Batt" on the copper colored terminal. Make sure to have the "copper" colored terminal toward the battery and the "silver" colored terminal toward the fuseblock.

On the drivers side inner fender there is a factory ground point. We used this location to mount the circuit breaker since it allowed us to mount it without having to drill any holes. Note: If you use this location you will have to enlarge one of the holes in the circuit breaker mounting tabs using a ¼" drill bit to allow the factory grounding bolt to go through. Once the mounting tab has been modified use a 3/8" socket to tighten it up.

Use the two small ring connectors and hex nuts/washers provided to connect the power wire to the appropriate poles on the circuit breaker. Copper Pole goes to the battery and the silver pole goes to the fuseblock.

We found that the large ring connector provided was a little big for the bolt on the positive terminal on our battery. Using a smaller 12-10 AWG connector fit it perfectly.

After all connections are made, route the accessory power wires to their needed locations.

Note: All power wires are rated at 20 amps. Caution should be used not to overload any circuits. Be sure that the ground wire is properly grounded when the fuseblock is mounted on plastic or fiberglass components.