Step 1: Thread the 1"-14 jam nut onto the each of the 4 threaded Poly Flex joints. Then take the joints and thread them onto the traction bars. Make sure leave less than 1inch of thread showing when assembling the joints onto the bars.

Step 2: The front slip yoke assembly takes a few more steps. First, slide the boot over the end of the yoke. Then, attach Teflon pieces onto the slip yoke, and apply the assembly grease to make the installation process easier.

Step 3: When assembling the yoke, leave 2 inches of the yoke extended from the end of the bar (boot removed for clarity).

Step 4: The edges of the axle bracket were beveled with a metal arbor on a die grinder. While not required, this gives the part of the bracket that touches the axle a fillet (bit of an angle), allowing the weld to fill and provide proper penetration on the bracket as not to separate it from the axle.

Step 5: To ensure proper weld penetration and reduce spatter, surface prep is critical. Remove all debris, paint, and oils from the surface. We started with flap-style disc on a grinder, and then wiped it down with acetone.

Step 6: Loosely assemble the rear axle-mount bracket to the Poly Flex joints on the traction bar. This step requires the weight of the vehicle on the rear axle. With the help of another person or jack stands hold the Lower Bracket against the axle between the two spring "U" bolts and raise opposite end of the traction bar up to the outside of the frame. Tack weld the Lower Bracket to the axle.

Step 7: Ensure that you position the yoke 2 inches from the traction bar. Slide the upper frame mount bracket onto the Poly Flex Joint, and position upper frame bracket in the proper position. Mark and drill the appropriate holes. The nice part about this design is that despite the Poly Flex joint being mounted outboard of the frame, it is still held in double shear by this bracket.

Step 8: When drilling on the left side of the Superduty, be sure to avoid the wiring harness and fuel lines on the inside of the frame rail. A shorted wire is easy to repair, but punching a hole in the steel fuel lines could put a damper on your day. And don't forget to mark and drill the bottom two holes on the bracket as well. The four small holes require a 3/8" bit, and the single large one requires a 5/8" bit.

Step 9: Remove the traction bar assembly, and set it aside. Roll in the welder, and lay a nice ¼" bead along the entire inside of the bracket on both sides. Rich at Bellingham Drive Line Services provided the final welds to ensure that the brackets weren't going to separate from the axle at the worse possible moment - perhaps when pulling a 45,000 pound sled!

Step 10: Allow the welded brackets to cool, and paint if you desire.

Step 11: Assemble the traction bar assembly with the provided hardware. Use the two 9/16" bolts (pre-drilled with Zirks), 4 washers, and two 9/16" nuts. Hint: assemble it with the Zirk fittings pointed inboard - it makes greasing them TREMENDOUSLY easier. Also note that the parking brake cable is routed between the traction bar assembly.

Step 12: Tighten all the bolts and jam nuts at this time.

Step 13: Finally, with a grease gun, inject a small amount of grease into each of the 8 Zerk (grease) fittings (4 greaseable bolts, 4 grease points on the Traction Bars)

Step 14: The finishing piece is the stainless steel insert that decorates the middle third of the ladder bar.

Step 15: Testing the Four Real Steel ladder bars at the opening NHRDA sled pull. The bars performed effortlessly - always keeping the rear axle in place, with nary a hop or bounce. The sled was weighed down to 45,000 pounds that day, and even under such extreme conditions, the bars held up flawlessly.