Your main goal to lighting your truck should be to make the truck more visible (to a certain point) and the improve the durability and dependability of the lights. Your safety and the safety of others is at stake. This how-to installation describes a very simple upgrade using LED cab clearance lights from a Freightliner truck. This upgrade of side markers and front parking lights was performed on a 1980-'86 Ford F-Series pickup truck.

This upgrade is a "true" LED conversion since those LED plug-in light "bulbs" are not used. LEDs used on semis, trailers, cars and trucks have a few special features that make them safer to use. The LEDs behind the lenses are the same color as the lens. For example, if you were to break the lens on an LED brake light on a semi trailer, the light would still show red. If it showed white, then of course drivers behind the trailer would be blinded. Also the LEDs and the circuits are sealed and waterproof, therefore they will continue to work without the lens in place.

Tools Required:

• Plexiglas cutter


• Automotive Goop


• 3M seam sealer


• "Goo Gone"


• Fine Tooth file


• Sheet metal cutters

Side Markers:

Using a Plexiglas cutter, remove the 194 socket tower. Then put the side marker back in the fender and using a marker, mark the location of the sheet metal.


Remove the lens from the cab light. The best method I've found to do this is to use "Goo Gone" to loosen the lens glue. After a good soaking, the lens should easily pop off.


Using the outline marked on the side marker as a guide, use the sheet metal cutters to trim the cab light base. Be sure to leave as much plastic as possible on the sides. This area will be used to glue the base to the side marker.


Center the cab light. The OEM lens has a clear area. You want the LEDs to be centered in the clear area. To asset in this, you can light up the LEDs using a 12-volt source or a 9-volt battery. Apply automotive goop and clamp until the goop dries.


Bench test!


Installed on the truck.


Front Parking Lights

The wiring for the LED is a basic 2 wire, hot and ground parking lights: the method and tools used for the parking lights is basically the same as the side markers. The major exception is that the 1157 tower will be re-used after cutting it off. Remove the 1157 socket tower. Use care when cutting the tower off. The cut should be as straight as possible, since the tower will be remounted.


After removing the lens from the cab light, cut the base with sheet metal cutters. The cab light base will be fitted inside the OEM tower. Make sure the cut allows the LED to be centered. This picture shows the finished cut compared to the uncut base.


Using automotive goop, glue the LED base into the OEM tower. Pay mind to the centering and the tilt. Clamp until dry.


After the light is dry, glue the tower back onto the OEM lens and base. Make sure you put the tower back on the base you cut it off of, since the cuts may vary and the fit needs to be as tight as possible. Clamp until dry. Since the cuts and the refit may not be perfect, use 3M-seam sealer to seal the unit. Make sure to seal the area where the LED socket exits the tower.


Bench test! I have not installed them on the 100 yet, due to the off-frame restore.