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mudcat
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Posted - May 21 : 9:48a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
every time i accelerate i hear a winding noise coming from the rear end somewhere. it usually starts to happen around 40 mph and the higher up the louder it gets... this morning it started around 15 mph and continues while i accelerate, floored or just tapping the gas. now i think it's the rear diff going out and am starting to look at what i should do about it. i don't want to pay 1300$ to get it replaced.. i was just thinking about swapping it out with something else a little stronger without replacing the gears.. anyone know what's interchangable, what other rear ends will fit on mine without adjusting anthing. i have a 2006 ford f150 fx4... i used to mud a little with it and carry my 4 wheeler in the back...

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Thermo
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Posted  - May 21 : 10:01a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
Before you go swapping rear ends, replace the U-joints first. Odds are, that is your problem. What you are describing is not uncommon for U-joints. They will cost you like $20 each (need 2) and replacing them is pretty easy to do. If you still have the noise, then ou are looking at the rear end. You may want to also check the fluid level. It is possible that with the level low, it can create noises.

Chris "Thermo" Coleman and Nukie, the radioactive 97 X

mudcat
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Posted  - May 21 : 2:23p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
is there an easier way to check the fluid level besides taking the pumpkin cover off? i was going to replace the fluid and i too was thinking maybe something got in there that caused the fluid to go bad or not lubricate everything inside the way it should... i heard you have to take a pump to pump out the fluid... pretty much what i'm saying is i don't know how to check or replace the fluid.

belz
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Posted  - May 21 : 4:10p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
There should be a filler hole on the cover. Take it off, and stick your finger in, u should feel the fluid. It should be pretty much level with the bottom of the hole.

mudcat
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Posted  - May 21 : 4:16p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
do you know how much i would need if i wanted to just replace it? i know it takes 70w90 marine gear synthetic oil...

Thermo
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Posted  - May 21 : 9:28p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
mudcat, the 9.75" differential takes 3.5 quarts of fluid. Make sure that if you have the limited slip differential, that you are adding in the friction modifier. If you don't, the rear end will chatter really bad and make you think that you messed something up. TRUST ME!!!!!

Chris "Thermo" Coleman and Nukie, the radioactive 97 X

MrSVTGal
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Posted  - May 21 : 11:13p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
If you don't have a big square-drive plug in the cover, check the snout side, up above the pinion.

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mudcat
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Posted  - May 22 : 8:42a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
i'm trying to figure out what gears i have in my truck, as well as limited slip. i heard you can go off of the vin number and look it up online or something. you know anything about it? i am going to check today. that's what the sound sounds like when i'm driving, it's a chattering/winding sound. does that friction modifier go bad?

JMC
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Posted  - May 22 : 8:56a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
A whine on acceleration is usually a worn out ring and pinion gear or improper install. Ford has had problems with the 9.75 in the new body stile F-150s.

JMC

Thermo
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Posted  - May 22 : 10:53a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
mudcat, crawl under the rear of your truck and look at the back side of your rear differential. In the upper passenger corner should be a metal tag. If you look on that, you will find something to the effect of 3L73 or 3L55. The 3L73 is the 3.73 rear end. If you look on the tag elsewhere, you will also find something to the effect of 373LS. This would be a 3.73 rear end with the factory installed limited slip unit.

Now, if you don't have that tag anymore, then what you can do is put the rear end up on jack stands. Now, put the tranny into neutral. At this point, walk up to either of the rear tires and spin it. Does the other tire spin the same way or the opposite way? Same way, limited slip unit is installed. If it spins the opposite way, then you have an open differential. If you have an open differential, then place one tire on the ground. Now, place a reference mark on the driveshaft and the tire(s) at the 6 o'clock position (ie, the point nearest the ground) Now, turn the driveshaft (counting the number of turns) to make the tire(s) turn 1 complete revolution. If you have a limited slip unit, then number of turns is your gear ratio (should be either 3.73 or 3.55). If you have an open differential, then you will need to take the number of turns and divide it by 2. That is your gear ratio.

Chris "Thermo" Coleman and Nukie, the radioactive 97 X

DrSpeed
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Posted  - May 22 : 12:33p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
The rear end is a difficult thing to check, as visibility is somewhat difficult.

When the rear end is going that fast, sometimes you may be flying too fast by the seat of your pants.

However, if you have fluid leaking out of your rear end, you may be in trouble, and should have it looked at by a professional.

Noise coming out of the rear end may happen occasionally...it happens to me quite a bit, pending on where I stopped earlier...typically happens when I venture south of the border.

one way or the other, be sure to have it fixed.

mudcat
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Posted  - June 2 : 11:22a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
so i pulled the fill plug and there was fluid in there didn't look bad, was maybe a 1/4 inch below the bottom of the hole... i took the cover plate off cleaned the mating surfaces for reinstallation.. and cleaned everything real well. i rotated the tire back and forth to see the play between the ring and pinion and it clicks there's a little play not a whole lot but it's definately not snug. does it have to be snug where there's no room for play when rotating back and forth or is there aloud to be play in it? there's still a bit of winding but the gears inside looked fine. no metal shavings. my u joints look fine there's no clinging in them or play. but when i tap the gas it seems to be coming from the engine. because when you tap the gas just enough to spool the belts a little faster. your not really putting load on the truck. so i think it's coming from one of the berrings in one of the pully's. still doesn't explain the winding from behind me. could it be my trany? trany fluid level was a tad low and my oil is a dark red/brownish. i'm going to replace the oil also i noticed a clicking at idle in my left bank. anyone?

Thermo
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Posted  - June 2 : 11:55a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
mudcat, if it is coming from the front of the motor, then most likely is the idler pulleys. You have 2 on the front. One that is stationary, one that is on the tensioner. You can try spraying a little bit of lubricant into the bearings to see if that will quiet them down. You can spray one at a time to isolate down which one is being the noise offender. As for why it is coming from behind you, the motor is sound isolated from the frame of the truck. So, it is possible the noise is being resonated through the block, through the tranny, to the rear axle.

As for play in the rear axle, some play is normal. If I remember right, you should get about 5 degrees of rotation out of the tires before the ring/pinion will touch.

Chris "Thermo" Coleman and Nukie, the radioactive 97 X

mudcat
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Posted  - June 2 : 4:12p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
sounds reasonable... i will spray some lub on each and individual berring to see which one it is. and 5 degrees sounds about right when i checked it. i looked at the ring and it said 373 on it which i'm assuming is the gear ratio. i didn't find any numbers that were like 3L73, however i did find other numbers.. didn't look like the gear ratio though. does anyone elses trucks have a drip coming from the exhaust? i take it it's running lean.. because it sounds like i have a supercharger in my truck when i step on the gas... you can hear it sucking pretty hard. i still need to figure out what that clicking was from my left bank..

ford_trck
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Posted  - June 2 : 11:07p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
It still could be your rear end howling on you. Usually the first bearing to go from my experiances in the shop is the pinion gear bearing. The only way to get see this bearing is my pulling your axles and removing the carrir and then the pinion. Unless you have a puller, air hammer, or new gears ready just in casae I don't recommend doing this on your own unless you have to tools to do the job

mudcat
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Posted  - June 8 : 2:23p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
ok so i was driving up the road going 80 for about 30 min pulling a trailer with a side by side and my 4 wheeler in the back. and i stopped at the gas station. truck wouldn't start sounded like a dead battery but the gauge was reading full. the starter was making a wierd winding sound then eventually went to a clicking sound. so i tapped on the starter and wouldn't free up. I'm assuming that my starter hasn't disengaged for a bit and was the winding sound. and that speed and time the starter got really hot and eventually sheered the teeth and trashed the starter. Now i'm assuming this is what happened and wont know for sure until i replace the starter. does this sound logical to you guys?

59 f-100
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Posted  - June 8 : 5:27p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
hey thermo when you told mudcat

Now, put the tranny into neutral. At this point, walk up to either of the rear tires and spin it. Does the other tire spin the same way or the opposite way? Same way, limited slip unit is installed. If it spins the opposite way, then you have an open differential. If you have an open differential, then place one tire on the ground. Now, place a reference mark on the driveshaft and the tire(s) at the 6 o'clock position (ie, the point nearest the ground) Now, turn the driveshaft (counting the number of turns) to make the tire(s) turn 1 complete revolution. If you have a limited slip unit, then number of turns is your gear ratio (should be either 3.73 or 3.55). If you have an open differential, then you will need to take the number of turns and divide it by 2. That is your gear ratio.

what years and models of ford trucks does that apply to

Thermo
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Posted  - June 8 : 8:26p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
59, this applies to all vehicles, whether trucks, cars, Fords, Chevy's, etc. So, whatever you have that you need to check, you are good.

Chris "Thermo" Coleman and Nukie, the radioactive 97 X
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