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Mark05KR
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MrSVTGal
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 Posted
- March 13 : 2:11p
| I think PowerSlot just starts with a stock rotor and machines/drills it.
Before you jump to something super expensive... I'd try to figure out why the pads wore out so quickly, and what warped the rotors. If your brakes were dragging it could cause all of that, but you would probably have noticed that the brakes smell 'hot' after a long drive.
Has somebody been borrowing your truck a lot? Maybe they're a leadfoot - some people are just hard on brakes, and using the brakes hard and often would wear pads and warp rotors (even good ones).
When you last had the tires rotated, did you ever check how tight the lug nuts were? If they overtorqued them big time, or tightened them in a non-star pattern, or tightened them unevenly, it would eventually cause rotor warpage. You should use a torque wrench and tighten in a star pattern to 85-105 ft-lbs (Ford spec) to avoid that sort of thing. I usually loosen and retorque wheels after they come back from a tire shop, since they think an air tool is an appropriate way to tighten a wheel...
What kind of pads did you have last time? If they were fairly aggressive pads, they'd wear quickly if not up to their operating temp, and they'd kill rotors too. Were these just the stock dealer replacements? They sound like some kind of Hawk pad to me...
Enough rambling... good luck!
MrSVTGal | |
Mark05KR
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Posted
- March 13 : 2:40p
| Quote: Originally posted by MrSVTGal
I think PowerSlot just starts with a stock rotor and machines/drills it.
Before you jump to something super expensive... I'd try to figure out why the pads wore out so quickly, and what warped the rotors. If your brakes were dragging it could cause all of that, but you would probably have noticed that the brakes smell 'hot' after a long drive.
Has somebody been borrowing your truck a lot? Maybe they're a leadfoot - some people are just hard on brakes, and using the brakes hard and often would wear pads and warp rotors (even good ones).
When you last had the tires rotated, did you ever check how tight the lug nuts were? If they overtorqued them big time, or tightened them in a non-star pattern, or tightened them unevenly, it would eventually cause rotor warpage. You should use a torque wrench and tighten in a star pattern to 85-105 ft-lbs (Ford spec) to avoid that sort of thing. I usually loosen and retorque wheels after they come back from a tire shop, since they think an air tool is an appropriate way to tighten a wheel...
What kind of pads did you have last time? If they were fairly aggressive pads, they'd wear quickly if not up to their operating temp, and they'd kill rotors too. Were these just the stock dealer replacements? They sound like some kind of Hawk pad to me...
Enough rambling... good luck!
MrSVTGal
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I don't think the brakes were dragging, never did smell anything from them and they have always worked as expected.
No one really drives the truck except me and the Wife. Maybe 100 miles was put on the truck, total, by anyone else.
I have always had the tires rotated either by the Ford dealer or by my local mechanic. I know that my mechanic always torques the wheel nuts properly. He has always looked up the torque specs whenever he removes wheels. I would guess that the Ford dealership mechanics would also properly torque the wheels, but who knows?
The pads and rotors are the originals. This is the first time that they have needed to be replaced.
I don't have a problem with needing new pads at 36,000 miles. We live in a very hilly area and winter driving around here can be pretty hard on brakes. I just think that having to replace the rotors at 36,000 miles sucks! It just seems to me that OEM rotors should be made thick enough that they can at least be re-surfaced once before they need to be replaced, since they aren't able to avoid warping under normal driving conditions.
Car manufacturers are now required to warranty exhaust systems for 50,000 miles, that's one reason why they now install stainless steel exhaust systems on new cars. As much as I hate government regulation of businesses, it may be time for them to force the manufacturers to use better components in their brake systems.
Consumers can get better quality, longer lasting brake rotors and pads for the same or less money than the OEM parts cost. I would think Ford could OEM parts from those aftermarket companies without incurring any cost increases. | |
ford_trck
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Posted
- March 13 : 3:55p
| | I've never had a new truck but I have always had good wear and everything with Wagner brakes from O'reilly's I've never had to replaced the brakes since I've installed those pads | |
DrSpeed
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Posted
- March 13 : 4:53p
| That is strange. Even at 70,000 miles on my Superduty, I didn't have to change the pads, and the rotors were perfectly fine, outside of a small groove.
http://www.rotorpros.com/
Give them a call...I run their rotors on the sedan....so far, so good!
EBC or Hawk pads should do you good.
Also check to see if the sliding pins on your calipers are properly lubed. That'll cause excessive wear if they're not, as the pads just drag.
35k miles? Warranty it! | |
bljadwin8
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Posted
- March 13 : 5:13p
| Caliper problems here on a 2003 For Explorer LTD. All wheels calipers will not disengage. Mechanic thought we were nuts.
As of yesterday all calipers on all wheels and emergency brake were replaced, all rotors and brakes replaced.
Mechanics drove came back and the calipers will not disengage.
Any ideas.
Budd | |
Mark05KR
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Posted
- March 13 : 5:19p
| Yeah right, warranty. Rotors are considered wear items, not covered under the warranty.
Anyway, after reading more about this and thinking about my set up, I had an epiphany!
KLEEN WHEELS.
The brake dust was so bad when the truck was new that I went out and bought a set of Kleen Wheels inserts. They fit inside the wheels and keep the dust from getting to the outside. They have slots in them that are supposed to scoop in air from the outside to keep air flowing to the rotors/calipers, but I wonder if not enough air is getting back there. That could be allowing the rotors to get hotter than they normally would. Add in some water from driving through puddles/snow, whatever... Who knows.
When I get the new rotors and pads installed I am going to take out the Kleen Wheels. I guess I'll just have to deal with the brake dust. | |
97F1504RAD
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Posted
- March 13 : 7:00p
| You know I hate to say it because everyone always says they are not hard on their brakes but the simple fact is driving style has a huge effect on this. I know to many people that think they are not hard on brakes when they drive but they are. i can assure you driving style and how and when you use your brakes plays a huge part in how they are wearing.
However Ford also does have very hard pads and soft rotors and it is a known fact. Usually when the pads have become worn to the point of needing replacement the rotors also usually need replacing as well.
And even going with a aftermarket pad and rotor will not help solve that issue a driving style issue.
Now saying that i would say to stay away from the Powerslots I have them and am not impressed with them at all or the HAWK pads. Rotorpros has superior rotors and I would go with them. Rich is a great guy and also has pads that he can sell with his rotors just give him a call. I suggest spending a couple extra bucks and getting his Premium Version of rotors.
They are actually Centric Branded Rotors and pads and they are a very good products at a affordable price. I highly recommend them
http://rotorpros.com/
Also if you go with a performance type pad it will make noise when braking lightly. This is just a by product of a performance type pad.
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Mark05KR
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Posted
- March 14 : 11:19a
| I don't think driving style has much to do with this particular situation just because my driving style hasn't changed much over the last several years. My last truck was a '94 F-350. I replaced the rotors on that truck at about 70,000 miles. Before that we had a Jeep Grand Cherokee that still had the original rotors on it when we traded it in at over 130,000 miles.
Anyway I ordered a complete set of Stop Tech slotted rotors (made by Centric) as well as a complete set of Centric Posi-Quiet pads. Hopefully these will last a little longer. | |
MrSVTGal
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Posted
- March 14 : 12:53p
| bljadwin8 - if your NEW brakes won't disengage either I'd guess that there's something wrong with your master cylinder that is preventing pressure from being released from the system, holding the calipers against the rotors.
Mark - on Ford passenger cars (especially Contour and Focus lines) the front brakes last about 20k miles, and usually they take out the rotors when the pads are worn, because there's no 'squeal' indicator on the pad to make noise before the whole pad goes metal to metal. 35k miles doesn't seem bad by comparison. I think you're just seeing the result of new vs. old design/manufacturing techniques - the new brakes don't last as long as the old ones. Meanwhile, your wheel inserts might be a contributor to warping. Why not just by some aftermarket pads that don't generate much dust? I've had excellent results using Porterfield R4S pads on the Expedition, after trying all 'regular' alternatives I could think of.
MrSVTGal | |
Ken in AB
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TANKS 250
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Vehicle: 05 F250 PSD CC SB MANUAL
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From: Belle Chasse Louisianna
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Posted
- March 14 : 2:37p
| My 05 f250 has 36,xxx miles on it,...and I have been running MUCH larger tires on it since it was 6 days old.
I have had 39.5" tires on it for over 17,000 miles,..and now I have 41" tires.
My brakes are still COMPLETELY stock,...still the same ones that came with the truck,....and I checked the brake pads 2 weeks ago....not even half of the brake pad is gone,..
You obviously have issues somewhere,...alot of towing, or your driving style has destroyed your pads and rotors..
I would think f250's were harder on brakes than f150's....guess not....lol
.
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Edited by - TANKS 250 on March 14 2:39p |
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Mark05KR
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Posted
- March 14 : 3:14p
| The Centric pads that I ordered are a low dust type pad. When I have the new rotors and pads installed I am going to have the Kleen Wheels inserts removed.
I don't do any towing and the only thing about driving style that I can think of that could be a contributing factor is terrain. We live in a very hilly area so the brakes are needed a lot on long downhill stretches. That coupled with winter driving through ice cold puddles of water on the road could have something to do with it. If the Kleen Wheels inserts were allowing the rotors to heat up more than they normally would have, that could be magnifying the problem.
But again, I have lived in the same area and driven the same way on the same routes with my last 2 vehicles and did not see this kind of problem. I can see needing to replace the OEM pads after 36,000 miles, but I don't feel like I should have to replace all 4 rotors at 36,000 miles.
I did have the rotors re-surfaced once on my F-350, but they did not need to be replaced. If The rotors on the F-150 could have been re-surfaced, that too would have been at least acceptable, but they were too badly warped and machining them flat would have required the removal of too much material leaving them thinner than minimum specifications. That is according to the dealer. I will have my mechanic verify that out and show me, just so I know.
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TANKS 250
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Posted
- March 14 : 5:52p
| | one thing that will IMMEDIATELY warp a rotor is,...pressing hard on the brakes as you go through a water puddle....you can warp rotors instantly doing that. | |
Mark05KR
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97F1504RAD
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Posted
- March 14 : 7:47p
| | Also make sure your properly torque the lug nuts and do it in a start pattern. | |
TANKS 250
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Posted
- March 14 : 9:19p
| my fault on that one,..I should have been more clear.
If you are driving along at around 60mph, and you see a big water puddle a head of you, and you slam on your brakes to avoid hydroplaning out of control, and you still enter the puddle with enough speed that the water splashes up on the rotors,....they will warp immediately.
It is not a poor design,..It is just the way metal reacts when is is superheated, then cooled rapidly. | |
Buzz
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Posted
- March 15 : 9:24a
| | There is not a damn thing wrong with Ford OEM rotors. My 97 still has the original rotors no warpage at all and it's on the third set of pads. Sounds like you have an issue with the calipers or something. | |
Mark05KR
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Posted
- March 15 : 10:33a
| | Buzz, you actually just confirmed what I was saying. The older OEM rotors that Ford used to use laster longer than the ones they are using now. I got decent, long service from the rotors on my '94. | |
Mark05KR
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Posted
- March 15 : 10:43a
| Quote: Originally posted by TANKS 250
my fault on that one,..I should have been more clear.
If you are driving along at around 60mph, and you see a big water puddle a head of you, and you slam on your brakes to avoid hydroplaning out of control, and you still enter the puddle with enough speed that the water splashes up on the rotors,....they will warp immediately.
It is not a poor design,..It is just the way metal reacts when is is superheated, then cooled rapidly.
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I don't understand, then, why I never had this happen to this degree with previous vehicles.
Both my mechanic and the Ford dealer mechanics (really everyone I have talked to about this) say that the later model rotors are thinner than the older model rotors. Thinner metal will warp easier than thicker metal. Since they start off thinner, that cannot be machined flat after the warping occurs because there is not enough material(thickness) left after they have been flattened. That, to me, is a design problem. Ford decided to use thinner rotors to save weight, reduce mass, whatever, but that was a design decision.
All vehicle manufacturers are doing these kinds of things to reduce the weight of the vehicles, reduce the power requirements to get the vehicle rolling, etc. All to increase the MPG numbers, as mandated by the EPA. | |
Buzz
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Posted
- March 15 : 10:45a
| I guess it's like everything else made nowadays....make it cheap as you can and to hell with how long it lasts.  | |
Mark05KR
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Posted
- March 15 : 10:51a
| | Yup. | |
Mercury
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Posted
- April 25 : 8:17p
| i know its coming back from the dead but let me share some insight
Rotors very rarely warp at all.
What will happen is friction material is transferred unevenbely to the rotor. If this occurs then the rotor will appear warped (not true)
solution, when first getting new pads and or rotors, break them in properly. And avoid hard stops and resting on the brake pedel. This will leave an imprint on the rotor.
How do I know all this - I went through it with mine
kenny | |
MrSVTGal
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Posted
- April 25 : 11:15p
| I've heard that argument before, but I've also measured the runout of my rotors too, and they DO warp when overheated.
The brake pad material transfer may make things even worse, but saying that there is no warping going on is simply not true in many cases.
MrSVTGal | |
DrSpeed
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Mark05KR
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More on Brakes :-(
