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Mark05KR
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97F1504RAD
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 Posted
- October 25 2007 : 9:48a
| Ford rotors have been soft for a long long time. Pads nowadays are becoming harder such as the ceramics so soemthing has to give between the two.
I highly recomend the Centric Brand of Rotors, you do not have to get slotted and drilled rotors but Rotorpros has them and they are going to be the same cost as the normal ones you buy lcoally probabaly even less.
Rotor pros even has nice pads he can sell you.
http://rotorpros.com/index.htm
http://www.centricparts.com/index2.html
As for pads stay away from HAWK they suck seriously noisy and lots of dust. I suggest EBC or Aekebono.
Richard | |
ford_trck
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Posted
- October 25 2007 : 10:07a
| | For brakes I and rotors I used to go with the cheap ones but I've learned not to. O-reilly's has Wagner pads and rotors. I've never had a problem with these and on my 97 F-150 I had 92,000 miles on the front brakes alone. Then I got rid of the truck. | |
devnull
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Posted
- October 25 2007 : 10:49a
| High spots developing are not, as I understand, a fault of the rotor.
It's either the pads/rotors weren't bedded properly, or someone rode the brakes and then stopped hard and the pads left an imprint. | |
Mark05KR
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Posted
- October 25 2007 : 11:50a
| Quote: Originally posted by devnull
High spots developing are not, as I understand, a fault of the rotor.
It's either the pads/rotors weren't bedded properly, or someone rode the brakes and then stopped hard and the pads left an imprint.
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Well, the service writer first told me that the rotors were 'lipped'.
When I asked what that was, she told me they had high spots. Either way there is an intermittent squeak when the high spot or warp rubs on the rotor. I did ask what would cause this and was told that it is usually a result of the rotors overheating, which agrees with your riding the brakes theory.
But, I really don't think either one of those things happened. I drove the truck exclusively for the first 1,000 miles, being very gentle and following proper break-in procedures. So the pads should have been properly seated, and the noises just started within the last 2,000 miles or so.
About 80-85% of the miles put on the truck since it was new were put on by me. I guess my wife may have stomped on the brake peddle a time or three, but she is not one to ride the brakes. Hell, she barely uses them, preferring to use the car in front to slow her down. 
At this point I think Richards theory is probably correct, Ford makes soft, shitty rotors that can't take the heat. As I recall, we also had a similar situation with the rotors on my Wife's Expedition, although not until it was well over 70,000 miles.
| |
ShowYa
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Posted
- October 25 2007 : 1:48p
| | This just gives you a good reason to get some Rotor Pros! | |
Mark05KR
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Posted
- October 25 2007 : 2:54p
| The mechanic said I was fine leaving them the way they are until the pads need to be replaced. They should have no problem being resurfaced then, since there is only a slight warp. I just have to deal with the intermittent brake squeak.
Maybe I should just grease up the rotors real good.  | |
ShowYa
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Posted
- October 25 2007 : 3:20p
| | Put down the grease gun, step back against the wall, turn around and face the wall, and I will go get Ashley for you. | |
Mark05KR
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biggers
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Posted
- November 13 2007 : 11:19p
| Mark05KR, rotors don't typically actually warp, the high spots they are mentioning is most likely pad debris that has worked it's way onto the rotor surface.
This is common, and as devnull mentioned is typically caused when getting the pads/rotors warm, and coming to a complete stop with the foot still on the brake, in effect baking the pad onto the rotor, which can cause material to remain. The catchphrase for folks in the rotor replacement world is "warped".
With sports cars and higher end pads/rotors, the typical solution is to fire it up to 70-100mph and do a couple of full hard (but never to 0mph) stops, which will wear the pad residue off.
But if you're getting up in the mileage, chances are the rotors have been worn some from the pads, and machining definitely can get you off to a "fresh start", but obviously takes material from the rotor, which will reduce it's life, and lessen the heat dissipation qualities, etc.
I work over at STILLEN, and we have rotors & pads if you need them, I'm sure I can pull a smokin' deal for you, PM if that helps.
Josh | |
MrSVTGal
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Posted
- November 14 2007 : 12:14a
| Short answer: don't worry about it. The noise is annoying, but not harmful.
You can rough up the surface of the rotors with a grinder, or the pads with some sandpaper (the dealers do this, if you complain enough). You can get noises if the pad doesn't retract all the way (spring clip issue - but not something you'd get free pads out of), or if you get a buildup of crud (on the rotors, or glazed pads).
Or you can go whole hog and replace the perfectly functioning pads/rotors with new ones.
I wouldn't worry about it.
MrSVTGal | |
Mark05KR
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Posted
- November 14 2007 : 7:50a
| Quote: Originally posted by biggers
Mark05KR, rotors don't typically actually warp, the high spots they are mentioning is most likely pad debris that has worked it's way onto the rotor surface.
This is common, and as devnull mentioned is typically caused when getting the pads/rotors warm, and coming to a complete stop with the foot still on the brake, in effect baking the pad onto the rotor, which can cause material to remain. The catchphrase for folks in the rotor replacement world is "warped".
With sports cars and higher end pads/rotors, the typical solution is to fire it up to 70-100mph and do a couple of full hard (but never to 0mph) stops, which will wear the pad residue off.
But if you're getting up in the mileage, chances are the rotors have been worn some from the pads, and machining definitely can get you off to a "fresh start", but obviously takes material from the rotor, which will reduce it's life, and lessen the heat dissipation qualities, etc.
I work over at STILLEN, and we have rotors & pads if you need them, I'm sure I can pull a smokin' deal for you, PM if that helps.
Josh
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Thanks for the offer, Josh.
At his point I am just going to leave things as they are. The squeaking seems to come and go, and I can live with it until next spring/summer when the pads will probably need replacing. They should be able to resurface the rotors at that point so there shouldn't be a need to buy new ones. | |
Mark05KR
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devnull
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MrSVTGal
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Posted
- November 14 2007 : 12:21p
| A lot of rotors really do warp, although they may return to a near-unwarped status when they cool back down. I've measured plenty of sets with a dial indicator, and I know that for our '94 Mustang (13" rotor), I can feel 0.006" runout (measured on a cold rotor) when braking.
The solution for me has to simply buy better rotors. Not necessarily slotted or drilled, but rather a better manufacturer. Bendix or Brembo or whatever Napa/CarQuest sells as their premium product, rather than 'Albany' or other cheapies from the local Kragen/AutoZone.
On the Expedition, we upgraded to a 14" StopTech setup, which helped a lot, since the original brakes were undersized for the weight/size of the truck, and my wife's driving style.
But, I agree that there are lots of other ways for a rotor to fail or feel 'warped', and most drivers and counter people would be unable to figure out the real failure mode.
MrSVTGal | |
ShowYa
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Posted
- November 14 2007 : 7:55p
| | Mark, did Ashley ever show up? What happened with my date with your sister in law? | |
devnull
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Mort
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Posted
- November 15 2007 : 8:52a
| Does the truck sit for long periods of time? I know when I worked for the Ford dealer, we had Saleens that would sit on the lot forever (because they were pieces of garbage, but that's another thread). The pads had so much metal in them that they would rust to the rotor, and, for one, they would have a hard time letting go of their parking spot. And for two, they would make a hideous noise when they actually did get going.
But I smoothed them out, until they had to sit for another couple months. | |
TANKS 250
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Posted
- November 15 2007 : 11:24a
| rotors warp very easily,....if your doing 50mph, and see a big water puddle, then stomp your brakes to slow down, then hit the puddle,...as soon as the cold water hits the hot rotors,...that's it,...immediately warped,...not always warped real bad,...sometimes not even that noticeable.
You'll notice they are warped when you slow down at a stoplight, and the truck seems like it "surges" to a stop.
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Edited by - TANKS 250 on November 15 2007 1:41p |
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Mark05KR
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ShowYa
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Posted
- November 15 2007 : 12:54p
| | I didn't get that memo! I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night in Springfield, MO | |
Sawblade
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Mark05KR
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Posted
- November 15 2007 : 3:18p
| | I used ceramic pads on my last truck and also on the Wife's Expedition. I liked them a lot, nice and quiet and very low dust. I can't remember the brand I used, though. | |
carnut57
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Posted
- November 15 2007 : 6:04p
| On my 99 I had the rotors replaced 2 times the 3rd set were rotopros, never hadda nother problem. Then I replaced the crappy hard ceramic pads and replaced them with EBC Green pads from summitracing.com. I loved the stopping power and NO brake dust!! Never had another warped rotor...
I hate the ones on my 05, I think they have a dust dispenser mounted on the front wheels!! | |
Mark05KR
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Posted
- November 16 2007 : 8:54a
| | I picked up a set of Kleen Wheels for the truck shortly after I got it because of the major brake dust problem. They do a real good job keeping most of the brake dust from getting onto the outside surface of the wheels. | |
Mercury
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Posted
- May 13 : 2:05p
| Quote: Originally posted by Mark05KR
Quote: Originally posted by devnull
High spots developing are not, as I understand, a fault of the rotor.
It's either the pads/rotors weren't bedded properly, or someone rode the brakes and then stopped hard and the pads left an imprint.
|
Well, the service writer first told me that the rotors were 'lipped'.
When I asked what that was, she told me they had high spots. Either way there is an intermittent squeak when the high spot or warp rubs on the rotor. I did ask what would cause this and was told that it is usually a result of the rotors overheating, which agrees with your riding the brakes theory.
But, I really don't think either one of those things happened. I drove the truck exclusively for the first 1,000 miles, being very gentle and following proper break-in procedures. So the pads should have been properly seated, and the noises just started within the last 2,000 miles or so.
About 80-85% of the miles put on the truck since it was new were put on by me. I guess my wife may have stomped on the brake peddle a time or three, but she is not one to ride the brakes. Hell, she barely uses them, preferring to use the car in front to slow her down.
At this point I think Richards theory is probably correct, Ford makes soft, *ty rotors that can't take the heat. As I recall, we also had a similar situation with the rotors on my Wife's Expedition, although not until it was well over 70,000 miles.
|
my dealer gave me the same crap... when i swapped the rotors i found brake pad bed in marks (meaning i stopped hard and stayed on the brake) this made high spots on the rotor
rotors are very easy to get cut and only about 10 bux each
i say - go get them cut, then when you get the rotors back, bed the pads into those rotors well, also check calipers for sticky pins
to break the pads in, do 5 consecutive hard stops from 60 to 10mph then a cooling run... do this twice
I went with ART rotors and they ok, but stick with stock
kenny | |
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Let's talk about rotors
