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 Help...Need Advice...6.0 Towing/Mpg Mods

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bigdaddyjay07
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Posted - August 17 2007 : 1:55a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
I just recently bought an '03 and an '05 both are F350 4x4 DRW. In the past I have only had a '99 F250 w/5.4, I kept from buying a diesel cause I knew that if it wasn't for work/towing only, then I would go crazy with modifications. I am well aware of what can be done to take one to the max. These 2 trucks were bought for strictly business and I can't afford to make any mistakes, either with buying the wrong thing or spending more than I need to on something that won't even help much. I want to do turbo back exhaust and an intercooler upgrade. I am not sure which way to go as far as programmers or chips. I am not even sure if I should even change that at all. I am going to be pulling 20-30k and don't want to take any chances of breaking anything cause it was turned up too much. I know that with some programs they change tranny line pressures,shift points etc. I just want to keep it somewhat simple, but powerful.
I am not sure about things like cat delete, straight pipe vs. muffler, 4" vs. 5", 3.5" vs. 4" on the downpipe,single vs. duals out. I hear that the stock air intake on the 6.0 is really good and not worth changing. I have no idea how accurate that is. The exhaust brakes. Are they worth it? I am wide open to any and all advice that yall may have. Thanks in advance.

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DrSpeed
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Posted  - August 17 2007 : 3:51a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
dood, just post it in ONE forum...we'll get to you if we have answers...

DrSpeed
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Posted  - August 17 2007 : 3:56a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
I would say if you want to tow, minimize the electronic HP mods on the motor.

You want the engine to breathe, so I'd start with an aFe Magnum Stage 2 intake, a 4" turbo back exhaust (4 inch is all you need for a 6.0 turbo'ed engine), and a mild programmer. I know DP tuner has some good 40 hp tunes to help with fuel economy.

As for intercoolers, the gains are minimal for the bang/buck arena, and the factory ones are plenty big.

Spend some money on gauges - EGT, Tranny, and Boost....make sure the tranny doesn't get hot.

Tranny temps are key to your truck surviving. Don't let tranny temps exceed 190*F.

You can get an aftermarket tranny valve body to keep line pressures up for firmer shifts (that create less heat due to less slippage).

And do the exhaust brake - it will save your service brakes.

ford_trck
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Posted  - August 17 2007 : 7:26p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
^^ what he said. Are these trucks still under warrenty? If it is you may want to hold back on the programmer part of it. If a dealerships plugs into the computer there is a code in there and 99% of the time they will void the warrenty.

offroad250
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Posted  - August 18 2007 : 9:24p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
Quote:
I am going to be pulling 20-30k


Isnt that more suited for an F550 or 650, than a 350?

Jason

ford_trck
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Posted  - August 18 2007 : 10:40p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
350's will handle it I've seen them do it before anyway.

Siber Express
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Posted  - August 19 2007 : 9:16a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
I know I am pulling 15,000 pounds behind my 05 and if I go sit on a scale I am at 25,780 pounds, Ford rates the F350 at 26,000 if it has the Heavy duty tow pachage, it has pulled more, closer to 30,000 GCVW but there is a Grey area that if Ford knew the warranty would be voided because of it being over weight.
Here it is a 26K

ford_trck
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Posted  - August 19 2007 : 11:08a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
Hell that's nothing for that truck. I'm a heavy equipment mechanic and I've seen Ford hauling in skid steers and mini excavators on them. Wednesday there was a 3/4 chevy pulling a backhoe into the shop.

Siber Express
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Posted  - August 19 2007 : 12:01p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
I would guess doing it and doing it legally are 2 different things

Dissociative
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Posted  - August 19 2007 : 12:19p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
i just got a 250 with the 6.0 and would also liek to keep the mods safe and simple....how about some more info on this guys...any more "beginner" mods for the 6.0's?

exaust brake, cost?...sound cool?...i don't tow but i plow..bed full of saltbags and a 8' western...

ford_trck
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Posted  - August 19 2007 : 3:32p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
Quote:
Originally posted by Dissociative

exaust brake, cost?...sound cool?...i don't tow but i plow..bed full of saltbags and a 8' western...


Exhaust brakes are nice when towing but using them is getting illegal in more and more places

Dissociative
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Posted  - August 19 2007 : 3:36p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
i dont care about legality....anyone have one?...whats it like?

bigdaddyjay07
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Posted  - August 20 2007 : 7:09a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
Hey Yall,Thanks for all the input. The exhaust brake is the thing that I want to know more about myself. I know nothing about them when it comes to light duty trucks. How much can you feel it on the
6.0? Are there any cons to it? Warranty issues? How many diff ones are out there? Which one is the best?
I have also heard that there are actual engine brakes availabe for the light truck market now as well. Is that true and if so what's the story with them. I would imagine that the install on that would be up there.
I have seen several OTR Rigs with both installed and they say that together they make a major difference. What is the deal when it comes to the retarders though? I know that some are adjustable from 2-4-6 on the OTR's and then some are not. Some seem so strong that they want to put you through the windshield if your empty. Some companies actually require drivers to turn them off in wet conditions loaded or not. Due to possible jacknife. Some don't even have switches at all...totally automatic,torque sensing...I really want to know alot more about all the above.
I am more into the making it stronger,more durable and safer. Really can't use these 2 for any hot rodding. The next one will be a diff story though. What is the deal with the head gaskets,head bolts and what other issues are there out there? I recently read and have heard that there have been several issues with the heads. Some that were not even tampered with at all, 100% stock. I just want to know alot more about the 6.0 and what to watch for and/or not do.
I think that's enough questions for now. Thanks again so much for all the input and responses. Hey let's keep it going.

ford_trck
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Posted  - August 20 2007 : 11:55a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
As far as exhaust brakes go I would say banks has the best one out there right now. Some of the other companies are using the wastegate as a brake instead of a valve on the downside of the exhaust flow. That is not what a wastegate is for. A guy I work with has been thinking of adding one on is F-550 but he has the 7.3. He has a toter bed on it and hauls is camper with it. I'll have to talk to him and see if he has got one on it yet and how he likes it.

bigdaddyjay07
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Posted  - August 20 2007 : 9:57p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
I see...So the programmers that are tuning the turbo to act as a jake are actually just using the wastegate.
What's the cost on a good one.
Do you know if their a major pain to install? Is it a DIY or does it require special tools and/or a pro? Do you know if Banks is the only one that offers this type?

ford_trck
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Posted  - August 21 2007 : 10:33a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
This is the side for the exhaust brake
http://store.bankspower.com/Categories.aspx?Category=98bc9c2f-8936-4216-a279-4a87480c1e1f

Banks recomends using their smartlock for automatics.
http://store.bankspower.com/Categories.aspx?Category=ab256dfd-04a3-4d19-b28d-f01ae0131385

I believe that the brake mounts right after the turbo and has a 3.5in outlet. With the smartlock it locks the convertor in lock up so that way you have 1.1 drive with the rear wheels. Price's I don't know but you could always call Banks and find out

ford_trck
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Posted  - August 21 2007 : 10:52a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
Pac brake is another company that uses an actuator and a valve instead of the wastegate. They also have online install manuals

DerekDallege
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Posted  - April 6 : 5:05a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
I have an 88 F350 srw cc lb with a stock 7.3L and a 5 speed od and I pull a 32' goose neck horse trailer that weighs in at about 14,000 fully loaded. So I'm around 21k total. I don't have any problem running 70 mph on the flat. Takes a few miles to get there, but there's no flat stretches by on ramps around me either. I was probably off by a couple hundred rs on my other posts, but we just got the trailer last fall and I haven't taken it out of storage yet this spring. Of course this is not my ideal towing situation, but I can't afford anything newer. I am going to start making some major improvements on the truck. First I have to convert to 4WD. I shouldn't have bought a 2wd but I have an 83 F250 4X4 6.9L 4 speed, just can't afford to register and insure two trucks and a car too well. Plus all my * is in my HUGE tool box on the big truck. I pulled a 12k skidder on a 2k beater car trailer that sits about 3' high at the deck. I use a 6-8 inch rise solid ball mount to keep it level. Anyway, I balanced the trailer and it was still not much fun and I only had to go 10 miles. I'd really like to have a goose neck car trailer or flat bed. Other than the horse trailer, I don't usually pull that big of a load, but it'd be nice to be able to. We have a Farmall/IH 560 tractor I would like to haul. My uncle has a gooseneck flat bed with singles, and he just got an 07 F250 so he can haul it I guess, it's for the family business. I can't use his trailer cuz he's a cock. But hey I bought my beater car trailer for $125 and it was worth that in steel that day, plus decent tires. It's a 21' deck, and I cut the plates where they raised the dovetail back up to level so it's got a 4' dovetail to get down to the ground from 3' high. I have 3" thick planks with 1/2" thick custom angle iron to hook them up. Custom made block riser with clevis chain hook up and 2" receiver mount on tongue for my winch. I have a cheap 2k single line winch with small cable and with a good battery it will pull a full size half ton 4X4 up on the trailer with no porblems. I usually double line it unless its a lighter car, though. Charge the battery after every load and unload just to be safe, but it'll do 2-3 depending on how heavy they are. Gotta make a battery box and convert my wiring so I have an aux to charge it...My cock uncle also has a wide 18' steel deck dove tail car trailer with no sides I can't use just cause he's a cock.

Damn it, I did it again...
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