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Mark05KR
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Posted - March 12 2007 : 10:59a

My wife has been bugging me for quite a while to get this picture of me and my daughter framed. We had this taken at Olan Mills studio a few years back. The picture was somehow transferred onto a framed canvas, like a painters canvas. It is a photograph but it is made to look like it is a painting.

Neither my wife or myself could find a frame that was the right size or depth for this picture, so I took my first stab at trying to make a picture frame. This is made from plans I found in Wood magazine.

The frame is made from 1/4" thick cherry on the inside and 1/2" thick cherry on the outside. The center section is 7/8" thick maple. The finished size is 16-5/8" by 13-5/8" and 2-1/8" front to back. Finished with Watco Natural Danish Oil.

I say my wife has been bugging me for a while to get this done. The picture is of me and my daughter. Her 31st birthday is coming up next month.

Edited by - Mark05KR on March 12 2007 11:00a

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Toolmaann
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Posted - March 12 2007 : 12:43p

28 years????... and my wife says I procrastinate...

Nice job on the frame Mark. What did you use as your corner clamps?... I use a cheap little dedicated frame clamp which I'll post a pic of if I can find it.

Here's what I use. This one's from Veritas, but mine must be a cheap knock-off. Works great though. Expands in size, so you can do frames up to 48" square.

Edited by - Toolmaann on March 12 2007 12:50p

devnull
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Posted - March 12 2007 : 1:19p

I've been meaning to do some frames as well. I think I started them about 2 years ago (maple and oak laminated together).

I have a couple of these clamps:

And 4 of these (which are very handy:

That frame turned out great, Mark. How did you cut the miters (besides the obvious)? I've seen some tools/etc for doing picture frames to get real tight 45/90 degree corners.

Edited by - devnull on March 12 2007 1:20p

Mark05KR
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Posted - March 12 2007 : 1:20p

Quote:

Originally posted by Toolmaann

28 years????... and my wife says I procrastinate...

Yeah, well, I've been busy.

Quote:

Originally posted by Toolmaann

[i]Nice job on the frame Mark. What did you use as your corner clamps?... I use a cheap little dedicated frame clamp which I'll post a pic of if I can find it.

Here's what I use. This one's from Veritas, but mine must be a cheap knock-off. Works great though. Expands in size, so you can do frames up to 48" square.

This is the clamp I would have used for this kind of project.

Following the plans made the job a little easier. The inside cherry piece and the center maple piece were glued together first. Those blanks were mitre cut to length. The corners were glued and clamped together with these

while I tacked the joints with brads. Once the glue set for a while, the outside pieces were added one side at a time, just glued and clamped.

Edited by - Mark05KR on March 12 2007 1:22p

Mark05KR
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Posted - March 12 2007 : 1:33p

Quote:

Originally posted by devnull

I've been meaning to do some frames as well. I think I started them about 2 years ago (maple and oak laminated together).

I have a couple of these clamps:

And 4 of these (which are very handy:

That frame turned out great, Mark. How did you cut the miters (besides the obvious)? I've seen some tools/etc for doing picture frames to get real tight 45/90 degree corners.

Are those the Bessey corner clamps?

I cut the miters for the laminated sections on the table saw, using a JDS Accu-Miter. The outside cherry pieces I cut on the Dewalt DW-708 miter saw. That's when the fun started. When I started to glue up the outside pieces, I saw big gaps in the corners on the bottom of the joint. The blade on my miter saw had gone out of alignment. It took me about an hour to get the damn blade squared up to the table. Now I know why some of the mouldings around the house look like crap.

Toolmaann
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Posted - March 12 2007 : 1:48p

Quote:

Now I know why some of the mouldings around the house look like crap.

Being a perfectionist, bad miter gaps are my ultimate bane. Latex caulk is one of the greatest things ever invented.

Edited by - Toolmaann on March 12 2007 1:50p

devnull
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Posted - March 12 2007 : 1:58p

Mark -

Yes those are the Bessey corner clamps. They are very sturdy.

I was asking about the miters because I have the same problem, it seems a 45degree angle on my miter saw is really a 44.88 degree angle. For the majority of things it isn't a problem, but for small precise things like picture frames, it sucks. For cabinet building, the jointer takes care of those problems, as you're not doing mitered corners.

I've seen picture frame miter boxes that are basically a large very sharp razor blade, in a fixture that is a perfect 45. You cut a 45 on your saw, and then trim off a couple thou's on the razor miter to get to "perfect".

I've done a lot of crown moulding in the house, and the latex caulk certainly comes in handy :)

Toolmaann
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Posted - March 12 2007 : 2:40p

Rockler carries it.

Mark05KR
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Posted - March 12 2007 : 3:09p

I have seen that tool on Rockler, pretty cool.

The problem I was having with my saw was that the blade was not moving perpendicular to the table from top to bottom. The top of the miter was dead on, the bottom was gaping about 1/16". It was just an adjustment issue, but it takes some time to get everything right on a double bevel sliding compound miter saw.

One trick that I have used to get nice tight miters is to undercut (overcut?)the angle by 1 degree or less. If you cut the 45 deg angle at 45.5 or 46 deg instead you can sometimes get the outside edges to match up a little better. Since there is less stock thickness at the outside edge, the tips will bend out a little with normal clamping pressure. You can clean up any outward bowing of the tips with sandpaper or a scraper after the glue sets up.

devnull
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Posted - March 12 2007 : 3:15p

Quote:

Originally posted by Mark05KR

I have seen that tool on Rockler, pretty cool.

The problem I was having with my saw was that the blade was not moving perpendicular to the table from top to bottom. The top of the miter was dead on, the bottom was gaping about 1/16". It was just an adjustment issue, but it takes some time to get everything right on a double bevel sliding compound miter saw.

One trick that I have used to get nice tight miters is to undercut (overcut?)the angle by 1 degree or less. If you cut the 45 deg angle at 45.5 or 46 deg instead you can sometimes get the outside edges to match up a little better. Since there is less stock thickness at the outside edge, the tips will bend out a little with normal clamping pressure. You can clean up any outward bowing of the tips with sandpaper or a scraper after the glue sets up.

Good tip. Also, you've probably seen this in woodworking magazines, you can do just the opposite: leave the outside of the miter "open", and then roll a drill bit over it after glue-up to bend the wood fibers and close the gap.

Mark05KR
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Posted - March 12 2007 : 3:24p

I actually did that on this frame before I discovered the alignment problem on the saw.

You can still see a small gap in the upper right corner.

Edited by - Mark05KR on March 12 2007 3:25p

water spider
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Posted Wirelessly - March 12 2007 : 3:59p

Man you do some good work. Looks great.

MrSVTGal
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Posted - March 13 2007 : 12:16a

This is all great info... but the number one thing I took away from the first post is that I can NOW refer my wife to this thread whenever she complains that I procrastinate! I got nothin' to compare to 28 years!

MrSVTGal

Mark05KR
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Posted - March 13 2007 : 8:14a

Glad I could do my part.

ShowYa
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Posted - March 13 2007 : 12:28p

So when can we expect a wooden rack for the King Ranch? Stock rails or side racks?

offroad250
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Posted - March 13 2007 : 3:09p

Very nice Mark. Yet another job well done

Jason

Mark05KR
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Posted - March 13 2007 : 4:28p

Quote:

Originally posted by ShowYa

So when can we expect a wooden rack for the King Ranch? Stock rails or side racks?

No plans for any of that stuff. I'm happy with the Bedrug and roll up tonneau.

JD
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Posted - March 13 2007 : 9:05p

You did a great job

Greez Lightning
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Posted - March 14 2007 : 1:50a

Your the man.

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