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 E-fan failure modes / Temp Switches?

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Mercury
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Posted - February 11 2007 : 8:14p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
Hi all.... I am on research mode for electrical fan temperature switches / temp sensors.

I was wondering if anybody knew exactly what goes wrong with their controllers? Is it the connection, does the inside board burn up? Im wondering if anybody has pictures or anything of what is happening?

Also - I am wondering how most of the controllers people buy are hooked into the radiator? Are they a temperature switch, or a varible temperature sensor?

any information is greatly appreciated - thinking of making my own setup for my two derale fans....

Thanks, Kenny

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Tom in Tacoma
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Posted  - February 11 2007 : 8:39p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
I worked with Flex-a-lite on the efans for the F-150's. I'm not aware of any wide-spread issues with their controllers but did have to replace mine when I got water into it while washing under the hood.

The controller connected to a switched 12v source, the battery, the AC clutch activation circuit and the fans. The temperature sensor was a probe that pushes through the radiator fins right at the upper inlet. The controller has a variable setting that I set to 190-degrees F.

If you don't want to mess with making one of your own - try this one: http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/vsc.html

Mercury
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Posted  - February 11 2007 : 8:55p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
Since a controller is likely going to be mounted "outside" I think it should be waterproof - so that is a problem i forsee...

the temp probe- did that have wires off it or was it a mercury bulb?

thanks, Kenny

Tom in Tacoma
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Posted  - February 11 2007 : 9:01p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
They are watertight Kenny - the one i fried was a prototype. I should have mentioned that. The production versions are epoxy filled.

There are two wires off the temperature probe that connect to the controller.

Mercury
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Posted  - February 11 2007 : 9:08p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
thanks for the info tom, how is it adjusted? Using a turn screw?

If you look around youll see that people had problems with these - but ill bet more times then not it is the connection that fails.

Kenny

Tom in Tacoma
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Posted  - February 11 2007 : 9:13p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
There's a potentiomiter (sp?) in the controller.

For what it's worth - I ran for about 65k miles on that set up without a problem. Loved it - one of my most favorite mods.

water spider
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Posted  - February 11 2007 : 9:26p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
What type of fans are you using. I know the Flex-a-lite fan controlers have there problem. I have had FAL fans in 3 of my vehicals and had my share of problems. What I found out from flex-a-lite that ther fan controles for the F150 Model 270. The fan controler that cones with the 270 can handle the power draw from the two fans but it is on the border line of overloading the controler. FAL also told me another option that I can do is get another controler and use one controler for each fan. To help with keeping the controler from burning up is to make sure you make your conection are good and tight. Is what I do when I install a set of fans. I do not use the conectors that come with the kit. I sodier all my conection and heat shrink all sodier joints. The only place I use the conectors that come with the kit are the one that attach to the controler, But I remove the plastic from the conector then crimp and sodier then heat shrink.

Once I stared soding all my contections I have not had any problems since.


Bryan

Mercury
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Posted  - February 12 2007 : 7:23a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
looks like a connection issue - if I make one wires will be soldered right to the board, no connections to worry about

Kenny

Spanky316
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Posted  - February 12 2007 : 10:05a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
see I want e-fans but I keep reading about everyone's problems with them and it keeps me from pulling the trigger on getting a set.

53-Ford
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Posted  - February 12 2007 : 10:41a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
I have a set and just can't see installing them with all these problems.

Mercury
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Posted  - February 12 2007 : 11:30a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
thats my problem too guys ^^^^

thats why im going to build my own... but if the people with problems can figure out exactly whats going wrong I would be able to do one a lot easier.

I figure its the connections - The other possibility is that the POWER MOSFET they use is not heat sinked well....if thats what the controller people use that is...

to those people who have had problems, please step up and explain what went wrong, it would sure give us some insight.

kenny

TANKS 250
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Posted  - February 12 2007 : 1:00p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
Hey kenny,...I think the reason alot of people aren't "stepping up", and telling you why theirs didn't work, is because, they aren't an electrical engineers like you.

I understand you are trying to make your own controll for the fans,....like you did with the Speedwizard,...which works GREAT!!!

But alot of us here probably dont have as much knowledge on this subject as you do, like myself...I'm not to good with electrical...but i'll give anything a shot.

But most times,...if it don't work....i wouldn't know how to trouble shoot it, to find out why it doesn't work. I would just say "IT's FUCKED", and i would get a new one......

RHuckster
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Posted  - February 12 2007 : 1:03p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
Thats the same controller I replaced the stock POS controller with which was also a FAL but the el cheapo that came with my 180 Black Magic Extreme. Working great so far.

Rick

Mercury
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Posted  - February 12 2007 : 1:48p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
thanks tanks - maybe youre right... it may be that people dont "care" why something went wrong - they just go and get a new one and their happy.

forget for a second that i am into electronics...

I am a different breed though I guess.... when something goes wrong - it actually bothers me if I dont know why.

glad to hear all is well with your speed wizard - ill be talking to you in the future for some mechanical assistance

kenny

water spider
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Posted  - February 12 2007 : 5:58p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
Like I said earlier. This is directly from Flex-a-lite and the cause of the problems.

The cause.
The controler just barly able to handle the two motors.
Bad conections (Were all the the conectors are CRIMPED together)

Quote:
Originally posted by water spider

What I found out from flex-a-lite that there fan controles for the F150 Model 270. The fan controler that cones with the 270 can handle the power draw from the two fans but it is on the border line of overloading the controler. FAL also told me another option that I can do is get another controler and use one controler for each fan.

Bryan


Bryan

Mercury
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Posted  - February 12 2007 : 6:00p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
thanks water - I apperciate your info

I just ordered my fans, and now am putting down on paper how i want to operate them

kenny

JD
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Posted  - February 12 2007 : 7:34p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator



Mine is on the way also Kenny so when it gets hear i will let you known

JMC
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Posted  - February 13 2007 : 7:19p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
Quote:
Originally posted by JMC

I bought a kit from Troyer Performance. It is still on the truck. The controllers work fine. I have since replaced the fuse link for the power to the fans. I have them wired both for turn on by the controllers, one for each fan, and by relayed off on switches.

Fan Mounting


Fan controllers






Mercury
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Posted  - February 13 2007 : 7:31p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
good way to do it JMC - may i ask how much the controllers were to buy two of um?

kenny

JMC
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Posted  - February 13 2007 : 7:39p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
Summit Racing sells them for 40 bucks each. Plus S&H. They are part number 16759 from Derale

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DER%2D16759&N=700+0&autoview=sku

JMC

Mercury
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Posted  - February 13 2007 : 9:05p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
thanks for the info - im actually making my own - It will be adjustable but wont have a mechanical variable resistor.

I need to find out where they get those temp probes....

I actually saw some controllers that still use mercury bulbs... - as a legality issue - the mercury ones cant be sold to jersey believe it or not

kenny

water spider
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Posted  - February 13 2007 : 9:16p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
Check in to the haden controler. you local pepboys should have them. I say pepboys only becae that the only plays I have seen them.


Bryan

Mercury
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Posted  - February 13 2007 : 9:19p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
ill take a look thanks water... im not worried about the controller - for that i already have a pretty good plan - and the beginning of a schematic laid out...

but i neeed to find a place that sells temp probes that i can use to stick in the fins...

Kenny

JMC
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Posted  - February 14 2007 : 12:25a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
Check out the Derale site; http://www.derale.com/adjust-fan-controller.html
They sell just the probe. That have both types.
PN 16750 Replacement 3/8" NPT water jacket thread-in probe and
PN 16760 Replacement push-in radiator fin probe.

JMC

Mercury
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Posted  - February 14 2007 : 7:02a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
thanks JMC - ill have to see if they have specs on the probe - since im going to do my own thing with it

kenny

Dissociative
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Posted  - February 15 2007 : 8:08a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
^^ thats the exact controller i am running from derale...

only running one fan on it..50amp relay runs second fan...and it has been replaced 4 times!!! that little screw you adjust is sooo sensative....

then (like yesterday) it goes out....then i turn screw back and forth...and it works for a few more months....

pot systems suck all around...go digital that reads stock temp sensor..
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