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A11BUDMAN
Horsepower Member
Premium Member
Blogs: 1 (View)
Vehicle: 1982 F-100
Joined: Apr 2006
Member # 649
From: Hooterville NC
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Mort
Nitrous Member
Premium Member
Blogs: 0 (Add)
Vehicle: 2009 F-150 XL
Joined: May 2005
Member # 86
From: Mortville WA
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 Posted
- January 10 2007 : 9:57a
| | Fiberglass would certainly be a better way. From what I have heard, it is actually fairly easy to do, also. Build your template (which you already have), put some mesh over it, glop some fiberglass on there, body fill it, and start the painting process. That's oversimplifying it somewhat, but it'll be a ton more durable than painting over rubber and plastic. | |
devnull
Mod Wrangler
Premium Member
Blogs: 4 (View)
Vehicle: 2009 Hyundai 1-Ton
Joined: May 2005
Member # 20
From: PartsUnknown
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Posted
- January 10 2007 : 10:30a
| I wouldn't recommend fiberglass resin without some actual fibers for reinforcement. If not done properly it can be somewhat brittle and possible develop cracks.
Not sure exactly what your setup is, but it *sounds* like you have some plastic pieces that you want to smooth and paint? IMO, the best approach would be to just use a 5" or 6" RO sander and smooth everything out. If you try to smooth it by "building up" with resin/glass you might have fitment problems when you go to put everything back together. | |
Spanky316
Supercharged Member
Blogs: 0 (Add)
Vehicle: 03 F150 L Screw,78 Ranger
Joined: Jun 2005
Member # 106
From: Spring Texas
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Posted
- January 10 2007 : 11:49a
| I don't have any fiberglassing experience but it seems to me you'll maybe spend about an equal amount of prep time doing either just glassing or sanding/smoothing.  | |
BIGRED Duramax
Member
Blogs: 0 (Add)
Vehicle: 06 2500HD CCLB Duramax
Joined: Jan 2007
Member # 1879
From: Scaggsville MD
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Posted
- January 10 2007 : 2:27p
| | The best way, provided the plastics are not to brittle, is sand the grain or testure, then use a heavy fill flexprimer. Remeber to use flex additve to all you color and finish coats, the panels do flex (especially during installation #@$%!!). | |
A11BUDMAN
Horsepower Member
Premium Member
Blogs: 1 (View)
Vehicle: 1982 F-100
Joined: Apr 2006
Member # 649
From: Hooterville NC
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Posted
- January 10 2007 : 4:12p
| Hey Now,
Thanks for the info!!!!
I reckon it won't be quick and easy to do...but what is ever quick and easy!!!!
Thanks again | |
SCRWDRVR
Turbocharged Member
Blogs: 1 (View)
Vehicle: 05 F150 86 F150
Joined: Jun 2006
Member # 849
From: Look Behind You
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Posted
- January 10 2007 : 6:12p
| | Well after looking at the dash on my 86 I've come to the conclusion that I think it would be best just to sand it smooth if your wanting to keep the stock shape. If you want to change the shape then fiberglass would be the way to go. | |
Kristen
Supercharged Member
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Vehicle: 2003 Ford F150 HD
Joined: May 2005
Member # 49
From: No where
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Posted
- January 11 2007 : 11:35a
| As someone else stated, every little piece in an auto moves and flexes. I love fiberglass but it isn't so forgiving in the long run and will most likely crack. I truly think you'd be better off taking all the time to sand down what you have. You've spent a lot of time on your truck already, so a bit more won't hurt any.
PS. And definitely try and get a flex additive in the paint. It really works. |
Edited by - Kristen on January 11 2007 11:36a |
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tinkerbellnpixiehell
Horsepower Member
Premium Member
Blogs: 0 (Add)
Vehicle: Barney-mobile
Joined: May 2005
Member # 67
From: Spanaway Washington
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Posted
- January 13 2007 : 1:23a
| Ya know.... by sanding all the texture off you will be able to see any little imperfection right? The smallest scrape or scuff will be very noticeable. If you do happen to go this route I suggest cutting it with 180 then finishing it at about 400. That will still allow you the mechanical adhesion but look and feel smooth.
Unless your changing the entire shape of the object I would not use fiberglass, it's a messy pain in the butt. Bondo is also not the answer, you can only build that so high then it becomes brittle and swells with moisture.
Flex addative was mentioned, that actually evaporates pretty quickly and is only designed to help when the product is being re installed in the vehicle. After about 30 days the paint will be just as brittle as on the exterior of the vehicle. Just an FYI: When you paint use Bulldog before you spray, paint doesn't want to stick to vynal and plastic regularly so that will open it's pores a bit. Goodluck to ya! | |
Scott F250
Member
Blogs: 0 (Add)
Vehicle: 1975 F250 4x4
Joined: Jan 2007
Member # 2062
From: Georgetown Ky
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Posted
- January 22 2007 : 1:47a
| Hey A11, get a high build primer, put it on in nice heavy coats. The stuff we used on MT 1coat was = 3 coats of regular primer. Just Scuff your Dash up with a red scotch pad and goto town priming. Dont forget the Wax/Grease remover to avoid adhesion and fisheye problems. Or just send the stuff up to me.  | |
A11BUDMAN
Horsepower Member
Premium Member
Blogs: 1 (View)
Vehicle: 1982 F-100
Joined: Apr 2006
Member # 649
From: Hooterville NC
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Posted
- January 22 2007 : 5:21a
| Hey Now,
Thanks for the Replies!!!
Still not sure if I'm going to tackle this or not...
I keep adding things to do....I need to start hanging some parts back on the old Girl!!!
Hey Now Scott...Glad to see ya over here at the Blog!!!!
I saw your Thread over on FTW....Another missing Member...
I got Banned unfairly for 30 days....I followed up on my banning Email and that got me a lifetime ban...
I still hang with most of the NCC Peeps in the area...
I miss the Hell out of the Pre's!!!!!
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Scott F250
Member
Blogs: 0 (Add)
Vehicle: 1975 F250 4x4
Joined: Jan 2007
Member # 2062
From: Georgetown Ky
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Posted
- January 22 2007 : 11:52a
| I still dont see you as the type that would do something to get banned.. lol
If you get the time, shoot me a email, my laptop crashed and i lost yours, and a few others.
S_fore@bellsouth.net
Glad to hear your doin good on the resto | |
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A Little Help Please
