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Toolmaann
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99XLTon20s
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Posted
- October 30 2006 : 6:21p
| | How thin? I would guess that a straight edge and a razor knife will be your best bet if it is thin enough. | |
Tom in Tacoma
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Posted
- October 30 2006 : 6:23p
| | He's right. Straight edge, score it a few times and you'll be able to snap it off. Any power cutting and it'll heat up and melt. | |
devnull
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Posted
- October 30 2006 : 6:24p
| I'd say bandsaw first. Score/cut second, I know that stuff is real bumpy on at least 1 side, and probably brittle.
You could probably also cut it on a tablesaw with an old blade that you don't mind getting gummed up. I would *guess* use a real low blade, so that angle of attack of the teeth the material eliminates the potential for the teeth to chop the material and tear-out as it cuts. Probably a high tooth count blade, like a paneling blade, would be best. | |
Toolmaann
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Posted
- October 30 2006 : 6:29p
| Thanks guys, I'll give the razor and straight edge a shot... I have some panels at work I can practice with.
My first thought was table saw, but I don't have anything more than an 80T blade. | |
Gentleman Jack
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Posted Wirelessly
- October 30 2006 : 6:37p
| | I will concur with Toms conclusion. Should work without a problem. | |
Buzz
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Texas Termin8er
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Posted
- October 30 2006 : 8:37p
| Just be careful with the razor knife and straight edge. I cut plexiglass at work and even the best scoring abilities can still cause a bad break or worse yet crack.
I would think a dremel with a side cutter blade would work O.K. also. TA | |
MichaelS
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Posted
- October 30 2006 : 9:24p
| Mikey Mikey Mikey!
TIN SNIPS!
At least for any strange shapes you need to make.  | |
Greez Lightning
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Posted
- October 30 2006 : 10:08p
| | I think a ban saw with a very thin blade. Or one of those small saber saws? It that the name of them. That would be the best of all. Tin snips are going to crack it in places you wont what. |
Edited by - Greez Lightning on October 30 2006 10:10p |
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MichaelS
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Posted
- October 30 2006 : 11:07p
| If its not brittle, it wont crack. I use tin snips to cut everything at work.
If not tin snips, a medic's shears (bandage scisors) | |
coiledup
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Posted
- October 31 2006 : 6:53a
| | flamethrower lol or if your worried about clean lines then i would use a razor also | |
Thermo
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Posted
- October 31 2006 : 4:33p
| toolmaaann, if you use a table saw, you can probably toss a 10" cutting wheel in it (like you would use to cut concrete). That should bolt up inside the table saw and would more sand the plastic apart than cut it. Just have to go ironically fast to prevent the plastic from heating up. I am working with a lot of acrylic right now for a set of tail lights and I am learning all sorts of tricks with brittle plastic and how to and not to treat it.
Chris "Thermo" Coleman and Nukie, the radioactive 97 X | |
Ken in AB
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Posted
- October 31 2006 : 5:36p
| Jig-Saw with a real fine blade I think would work the best. A Sawzal [sp]with a metal blade would do long straight cuts but a Jig-Saw would cut curves.
Let us know what works | |
bigreen
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Posted
- October 31 2006 : 8:30p
| sandwich between two plates of metal and plasma cut whatever the hell you want  | |
Joeg180
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Posted
- October 31 2006 : 10:00p
| | Scoring or tin snips and a lot of practice. | |
MrSVTGal
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Posted
- November 2 2006 : 2:02a
| Do you have a Zip/Roto type tool, that uses special drill bits with jigsaw-like motion?
If you use a table saw, you might want to put a layer of tape down on the material where you're going to cut it, to contain any cracking/splitting/chipping.
MrSVTGal | |
Toolmaann
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Posted
- November 10 2006 : 8:02p
| K... all done. I ended up trying a few methods to try and cut this stuff.
Snips?... sorry Tek, might work well for your ducting galvanized.. but chipped the shit out of this stuff.
Straight edge and score?... Eh, worked OK, but splintered.
Table saw was where I got my best results. Lowered the blade so it was barely above the table and scored it. Kept raising the blade a notch and scored it again. Did this till I was able to snap the line. Worked great, but took awhile.
Project was to insert this material into some panels I built. We had put a 12'x30' patio room up a couple of years ago. The room incorporated what was the back wall of our house, including what was an exterior window at the kitchen. When we initially finished the patio room, I merely removed the glass panes out of an aluminum frame that was installed prior to the original exterior stucco job. Pain in the ass to remove the frame. I'm not good at stucco repair. We lived with it like this until we finally got the new kitchen countertops and I was forced to finally do something.
I decided to totally frame out the window encasing the old aluminum frame inside. I had a plan to build some sort of sliding panels to cover the opening, yet still be able to open it up if needed.
This is how it looked before.

...and now. I used the light diffusers to still allow some natural light into the kitchen, as the patio room exposure is about all the kitchen gets. Still need to get down to Lowes for a couple of matching knobs.


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Edited by - Toolmaann on November 10 2006 8:02p |
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JD
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Posted
- November 10 2006 : 8:05p
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That sure came out nice good job | |
devnull
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Posted
- November 10 2006 : 8:50p
| | That turned out fantastic. Looks like you planned it that way right from the beginning. | |
Toolmaann
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Posted
- November 10 2006 : 9:05p
| Thanks. I'll tell you one thing I won't do again. I made the frames out of 11/16ths primed MDF. Most of the operations in milling were done at my router table, using straight bits. Stupid ass MDF remained packed in the routs...and I mean PACKED! I swear to God, I had to run this the same groove 3 times to clear out the channels. Pain in the ass.
Primed Pine from now on. |
Edited by - Toolmaann on November 10 2006 9:05p |
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Mark05KR
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Posted
- November 11 2006 : 7:22a
| MDF can be a royal pain to work with. And it dulls cutting edges real quick.
Beautiful job on the sliders.
BTW, we have that same letter holder. The door opens and it has hooks for keys inside, right? | |
Bear Hunter
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Posted
- November 11 2006 : 7:25a
| Man that looks really nice  | |
Toolmaann
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Posted
- November 11 2006 : 7:54a
| Yup Mark, same key box/letter holder (wife personalized her's with the hearts ) | |
redneckbrat
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Posted
- November 11 2006 : 12:37p
| | awesome job Mike. btw, I still have your stands, need to get them back to you. | |
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