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Mort
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Tom in Tacoma
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Posted
- October 8 2006 : 1:37p
| What you're describing is the very reason that I bought my first Superchip for the ol' '98 Blue Effie. I wanted something that would take the slop out of the shifts and remove that damned delay to downshift when you hit the 'go' pedal. The Superchip did that for me.
I've been running with a Superchip ever since. Matter of fact, that was the first mod done on my current truck.
I've read of people that did the Superchip routine and then added a shift kit as well with good results. | |
Mort
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Posted
- October 8 2006 : 2:21p
| Well, after doing a little research, here's what I've found...
Neither Superchips nor Hypertech makes a programmer specifically for my application. Since the engine in the Explorer/Mountaineer is somewhat unique (5.0 with coil packs instead of a distributor), I want to be sure to get something specifically for my application.
Jet Performance makes a plug-in module for my truck, which claims to enhance power and shifting, but since it is not a tuner, I couldn't reprogram all the computers for larger tires, which I plan on adding once the current set wears out (and the money comes along). And for $320 bones, I think I outta be able to do that.
Any more suggestions? | |
Jason
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Posted
- October 8 2006 : 5:26p
| Check out SCT Tuning...www.sctflash.com
i've got their big unit that is applicable with chargers/turbos and with a laptop you can run your own dyno..pretty crazy. It really did help ALOT in the midrange.
I have a fat chirp (sounds like a turbo) when my truck shifts under hard acceleration. The ford tech's told me my belts are showing a little use BUT i don't think it's the belts because it's been doing it since day 1...think it could be in my tranny like a torque converter slipping or something? truck has 46k on it and it's an 02 | |
VegasLightz
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Posted
- October 8 2006 : 6:52p
| Two Words: Shift Kit! You don't need to pull out the tranny, just the pan and valve body from the bottom of the unit. I believe there are companies that you can buy a valve body from custom fitted for what you're looking for.
BTW, You used to be able to have a Super Chip custom flashed to adjust shifting, not sure about the programmers or if S/C still makes the chip availabe, but by far, a shift kit will do a much better job. My .02 | |
Thermo
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Posted
- October 8 2006 : 8:24p
| Mort, like the above post says, your best bet will be a valve body kit. They run about $200, but that will do what you are after. There are some $50 kits there, but those require you to take your current valve body and tear it apart and put specific springs in specific holes. If you don't, then the tranny will do funny things. Spending the little bit extra will ensure a good job the first time.
To install one takes about an hour, maybe 90 minutes total. I did one on a friends F-250 and it was super simple. You undo the 14ish bolts holding the tranny pan in place. Then you remove the tranny filter. Finally you undo the 10 bolts holding the valve body in place. The valve body only goes in 1 way.
After you put the tranny fluid back in after completely being reassembled, you are good to go.
Another option is to do what is called a "Jerry Mod" to the tranny. What this does is alters the hole sizes in the metal plate between the valve body and the tranny body. I have heard a lot of good things about this, but the thing that has stopped me from doing it is the basic fact that I can't find any picture that numbers the holes (the site with the list of holes that need to be resized only notes them by hole number, not by a picture showing their locations). That mod only costs you the money for the tranny fluid.
Chris "Thermo" Coleman and Nukie, the radioactive 97 X | |
Mort
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Posted
- October 8 2006 : 9:09p
| | That's probably what I'll be leaning toward. I don't think I'd have the nerve to drill into my valve body even if I did have super good diagrams, so I'll have to find a kit. Is it the same kit as an AOD-E, or is it a different duck? | |
Greez Lightning
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Posted
- October 9 2006 : 2:35a
| After you blow the tranny by beefing it up I have a transmission guy that will build you a racing tranny that will be indestructable up to 1000 horsepower.
All you do is ship your tranny to him and he ships it back built to the hilt with more clutches and a complete race build. Just be ready for the donkey kick shifts it makes.
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Tom in Tacoma
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Posted
- October 9 2006 : 10:42a
| I can attest to the 'Donkey Kick' that Elvira delivers! But while she hits hard its not that hard until you get into the 'Loud Pedal'.
But... If it's indestructable up to 1000 horses - um - how many have you gone through Lynn?  | |
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Posted
- October 9 2006 : 1:01p
| Well guys from my records we do cover the 5.0 mountaineer in a part #1715 Max Micro tuner. This will the shift firmness and shift points, raise speed and rev limiters. If you have a digital odometer youc an recalibrate for tire height changes up to 38". 5.0L=18hp and 24 ftlbs of torque to the wheels. Ron | |
Tom in Tacoma
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Posted
- October 9 2006 : 1:57p
| There ya go Mort!
Hey Ron - should you have the opportunity to speak with Mike Troyer at any time, tell him his "brother" said hi. | |
Mort
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Posted
- October 9 2006 : 7:10p
| | That's cool, Ron. I didn't see it specifically listed on your site, so I wasn't sure. That's cool about the tire size thing, I'm only thinking of going up to a 32, so that'll work. And the odometer isn't digital, so I'll have to have my man at work do it for me. I just won't use the fuel computer if I can't get it reset easily. | |
Greez Lightning
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Posted
- October 10 2006 : 6:12a
| Tom, There is a problem with over 700 hp shifting into overdrive. Overdrive is the weakest gear so when racing you must take overdrive off. Each time I broke the tranny it was when I forgot to lock out overdrive. If your producing under 500 rwhp you can run it hard into Overdrive. 743 is a little too much for Overdrive
But he replaced my tranny for free twice.
Ive never broken 1st thru 3rd. | |
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