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 New Air Compressor issue - resolved!

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ShowYa
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Posted - September 30 2006 : 11:26a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
I have a Husky compressor that seems to be going bad, looking for some advice. It will run, cycle, and refill when I am around the shop. Then while I am away it runs, cycles, and when I come back from say 4-6 hours away, it has no air in the tank, it is on since no one else is around and power is good. I am wonder about a relay, or limiter switch internally? Belt rolls smooth, so no sign of binding, oil is good, electrician says the motor tests out good, windings appear to be good. It does rate a 17.3 Amp but pulls just over 18 at start up on a cycle? What should I do? Replace, rebuild the mechanical or buy a new compressor. Keep in mind this compressor had no maintenance prior to me buying the place either?

Brandon

Electrician did upgrade breaker from 20 Amp to 30 Thursday, and Friday they found a lose wire from breaker box to this breaker box the compressor is wired from?


Edited by - ShowYa on October 6 2006 10:29p
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Tom in Tacoma
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Posted  - September 30 2006 : 11:28a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
Is it cycling because the air is leaking out?

ShowYa
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Posted  - September 30 2006 : 11:29a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
Tom, it is used at my carwash, there is a minimal leak but never been an issue until now. I also recently knocked the valve out of it for water and moisture release and don't think this would be an issue?

Tom in Tacoma
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Posted  - September 30 2006 : 11:51a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
Two thoughts:

- since it's used at a car wash I'm assuming the air lines are spread out all over the place and because of that there might be leaks (a little here, a little there...) that might be causing it to have to bring up the pressure to the shutoff point.

- not sure what you meant by knocking out the water drain valve. If that means you're not draining the moisture out of the tank - that might be the problem. If the storage tank is storing moisture in it then there's less space for the compressed air and the compressor would need to constantly replenish the air in the tank.

I've had to deal with compressors that ran incessantly in the past - drove me bananas!

devnull
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Posted  - September 30 2006 : 3:52p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
Why would you (or the electrician) change out a breaker if the breaker isn't tripping? I hope you've got some #10 or #8 wire, otherwise that 30A breaker is a hazzard.

Any inductive load, like a motor) will draw more power momentarily on startp, I would've actually expected the startup current to exceed the 18A you mentioned.

It's hard to say from your description, but it sounds like an air leak. What happens if you pressurize the system, turn off the power, and wait 12 hours? Does the pressure stay the same, or does it drop?

Gentleman Jack
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Posted  - September 30 2006 : 4:35p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
If I recall correctly, for motors, the ampacity of an overcurrent device must be rated at 125% of the load. 20A does not meet that requirement. If its a decent compressor it should already have the appropriately sized cord.

ShowYa
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Posted  - September 30 2006 : 5:04p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
There has always been a minor leak, since I have been there. I timed the compressor today and from Noon to 2 PM it cycled on and off, then at 2:06 it came on, and went right off. It would not come back on for just short of 30 minutes and I would hit the reset button and it would not go. I smelled warm and hot, motor was hot to the touch. I am guessing the motor may be intermittingly going south? I spoke with the boss who wants to have the motor checked out before a new compressor is purchased.

JD
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Posted  - September 30 2006 : 8:14p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator



I f i leave mined on in the garage it will start up because i have a small leak

Thermo
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Posted  - September 30 2006 : 8:20p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
ShowYa, if you are not able to put your hand on the motor when it is not running and the motor has been off for over 5 minutes, then you are having power still applied to the windings. This is one of the signs that the motor is going south. Replace the motor and see what that does. That would be a lot cheaper than replacing the whole compressor. Granted, a 60 gallon upright should do the trick for you. The big problem with those is they are 220 VAC motors. But, they will last forever.

Chris "Thermo" Coleman and Nukie, the radioactive 97 X

ShowYa
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Posted  - September 30 2006 : 11:57p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
Thanks everyone!

Texas Termin8er
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Posted  - October 2 2006 : 7:55a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
Quote:
Originally posted by devnull

Why would you (or the electrician) change out a breaker if the breaker isn't tripping? I hope you've got some #10 or #8 wire, otherwise that 30A breaker is a hazzard.




Don't know what the air issue could be, but Devnull's statement is very true! If wire (from breaker to outlet) wasn't upgraded, you could be hosting an unexpected barbecue.
TA

ShowYa
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Posted  - October 2 2006 : 10:45a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
In regards to the wiring, when this all started back on Tuesday/Wednesday the breaker had tripped twice, sorry but I thought I had written that concern in here. I am suppose to meet with the owner and electrician this afternoon again.

By the way, the race in Kansas was the greatest Birthday present I ever got!

Thermo
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Posted  - October 2 2006 : 8:25p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
Showya, thinking about it, I would be looking at the pressure switch/relay. If the relay has a high resistance connection, it can cause the motor not to spin, which would cause the motor to have current passing through it, generating heat. Since the motor isn't spinning, there is no air passing through the motor either. And, like normal, the high resistance connection can be intermittent. So, it will run fine for a bit, then, for no apparent reason, not start, even though the relay has shut.

I wish I could show up at your shop and diagnose this thing. It would be easy to figure out. The hardest part would be catching it when it fails.

Chris "Thermo" Coleman and Nukie, the radioactive 97 X

ShowYa
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Posted  - October 3 2006 : 1:55a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
Thermo, you nailed it on the head, or the capaciter?

Thermo
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Posted  - October 3 2006 : 7:26a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
ShowYa, if it has a capacitor, then you have a split phase AC motor. IF the capacitor is toast, then that can cause this too. As long as the mechanical compressor is still good, I would upgrade the motor (go to a 220 VAC motor) and call it good. That will be much cheaper than replacing the entire compressor. You might have to upgrade the pressure switch too. Some are rated for 110/220, others are not.

Chris "Thermo" Coleman and Nukie, the radioactive 97 X

ShowYa
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Posted  - October 6 2006 : 10:31p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
Well, only happens on a Friday going into a weekend, the motor finally laid down to rest this afternoon. The wake will be Monday and free washes for all............ I got down installing a new repacement compressor around 7 tonight and owner took my buddies and I to HQQTers on a $100 gitft card! Thanks Thermo, he agreed with your posts this week as well, until the motor finally seized up.

The motor is a private label, owner wanted the write off anyway. $450 for a motor, freight, labor. New compressor was $869 and get this, no oil included and the power cord is an accessory now at Home Depot.

Edited by - ShowYa on October 6 2006 10:34p

Thermo
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Posted  - October 7 2006 : 9:14a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
ShowYa, well, the no oil bit doesn't surprise me. They do that to minimize any leakage and just general mess inside the truck. As for the power cord, well, there's a lot of different ways to wire up one of those compressors. I currently have mine (60 gallon upright with a 220 VAC motor) on a 50 foot extension cord (been moving too much recently to hard wire it back in). But, I have also had it hard wired into the house. So, it doesn't surprise me. Besides, it is one more way for them to save a few bucks.

An $869 compressor. You got one of the biggest ones made. THat is a beast. I would have figured a 60 gallon one would have been plenty. But then, I don't know all of the things inside of the car wash that might need air. I would have figured it would have been for the tire station and that is about it.

Chris "Thermo" Coleman and Nukie, the radioactive 97 X

MichaelS
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Posted  - October 7 2006 : 10:18a Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
I caught this thread too late - this type of stuff is what I deal with every day doing HVAC.

Glad you were around Thermo!

Thermo
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Posted  - October 7 2006 : 8:49p Reply with Quote Report this post to a moderator
Teknics, well, I was offered a job doing HVAC work around the Denver area. It would have been setting up temp systems for construction sites and stuff like that. Granted, I have never worked with HVAC systems ever before. I'm a nuclear reactor operator by trade and simply did a 3 day universal freon tech coarse via the navy out of curiosity. Oh well, 2.5 more years until I retire, then I am looking at going in with the civilian nuke program. We'll see.

Chris "Thermo" Coleman and Nukie, the radioactive 97 X
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